Active Materials Lab
UNUSUWUL: creating local value with British wool
The UNUSUWUL project, led by knitwear designer and BIT maker, Nicci James and supported by Professor Veronika Kapsali at the University of the Arts London, is a 12-month initiative starting in October 2024. The project aims to create local value from British wool by exploring the potential of native British wool fibres and breed-specific yarns.
Can you help? If you work with British wool as a farmer, spinner or designer you can support our project by filling in this questionnaire and join our group of stakeholders.
Background
The UK wool industry is currently facing significant challenges, with a reported 53% loss in value due to declining domestic wool prices. The situation has become so dire that many farmers are being forced to discard their wool. UNUSUWUL seeks to change this by implementing an innovative design and manufacturing process that enhances the value of British wool. The project specifically focuses on utilising British wool’s natural felting properties, which will help streamline the supply chain, reduce carbon footprints, and minimise energy consumption. Initially developed using merino wool, the project now centres on native British wool fibres for greater environmental benefits.
Impacts
The long-term goal of the project is to establish equitable partnerships across the textile supply chain, from farmers to brands. By providing a data-driven framework, UNUSUWUL seeks to integrate British wool into large-scale production processes, helping brands and manufacturers embrace sustainable-by-design strategies. This approach aligns with broader industry trends toward extended manufacturer responsibility and eco-friendly innovations.
Funding
The project is funded by IMPACT+ Network, part of the UKRI Circular Fashion and Textile Programme. IMPACT+ is a multi-disciplinary network based at Northumbria University, dedicated to challenging current environmental impact measurement methods in the fashion and textile industries. The official press release and additional details on other funded projects can be found on the IMPACT+ website.
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